Weathering with dummies

dunnyrail

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Have used some of the Casey method on Plastic Signals and other odd plastic things, very effective. If you cant get hold if iron filings wire wood works, just squeeze it and lots of lovely little bits come out and if the so happen to land on vinegar on plastic, well........ Personally I have not bothered with the PVA but I imagine pve let down with Vinegar to a sloppy mix may work well. Must try it sometime.
 

Tas devil

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We have not yet got round to the salt method. This works very well for showing rust in places. First job is to paint an area that you need to be rusty, that area only or around it. You let that dry then put some salt on it then spray the base coat. Wolah when that is dry you just use a stiff brush to remove the paint over the salt and the salt to give nice uneaven and sometimes flaky paint rust. The effect is stupendous.
 

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Tas devil

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This is my own salt-free method. It’s a secret blend of herbs and spice...err no, that’s KFC.
It’s finely-sieved, heat dried, Tasmanian red soil.
It might look overdone to some, but it is meant to be a very long abandoned tender.
In fact, it was a very shiny black plastic Eztec item about 30 minutes earlier than when I took this photo.
 

dunnyrail

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This is my own salt-free method. It’s a secret blend of herbs and spice...err no, that’s KFC.
It’s finely-sieved, heat dried, Tasmanian red soil.
It might look overdone to some, but it is meant to be a very long abandoned tender.
In fact, it was a very shiny black plastic Eztec item about 30 minutes earlier than when I took this photo.
Think it would work nicely for sundry purposes but perhaps as you say a little over the top for an in traffic item.
 

ColinK

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Ooooh, that does look good.
 

dunnyrail

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Just a little more on rust, been using this stuff off and on, part has reacted and the other darker part is on its second dose of the next after base coat. Takes 12 hours to fully work but is certainly rust. Had these for years and only just started to use it so may be a little past its best by date.
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Tas devil

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Think it would work nicely for sundry purposes but perhaps as you say a little over the top for an in traffic item.
The good thing is it can be “diluted” quite easily during application, to make it less severe.
But definately a bit much for a working loco
On the other hand, my effort is a bit less severe than the real thing in the attached photo of a real derelict loco and adjacent tender.
And that loco really is what it looks like it is- an ex Mersey tank, only abandoned by the side of a coal railway in NSW, long after it had ceased hauling coal trains.
It is amazing where second hand steamers ended up!
Photo by courtesy of Doug Byron
 

Tas devil

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The good thing is it can be “diluted” quite easily during application, to make it less severe.
But definately a bit much for a working loco
On the other hand, my effort is a bit less severe than the real thing in the attached photo of a real derelict loco and adjacent tender.
And that loco really is what it looks like it is- an ex Mersey tank, only abandoned by the side of a coal railway in NSW, long after it had ceased hauling coal trains.
It is amazing where second hand steamers ended up!
Photo by courtesy of Doug Byron
 

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dunnyrail

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Yes it is one of ours can we have it back please?
 

Tas devil

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Yes it is one of ours can we have it back please?
Certainly, just as long as you send K1 Garratt over to Tasmania for a visit!
I promise I’ll send the Mersey Tank straight over, and return K1 after a short while.
Promise... trust me..
The Right Hon Peter Mack MP
“My word is my bond“.
ha ha
 

PaulRhB

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Good stuff guys :) It’s quite good fun once you get into it ;)
The bright colours are good as base layers and highlights.
This is On30 but the technique works in G.
I started with a Bachmann plasticville snap together kit and replaced the deck with scratchbuilt beams, basically the white is scratchbuilt.
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I removed some of the snap fit clips later too and then primed it with Halfords red primer
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Now it got a heavy 50/50 paint to thinners wash with Tamiya flat brown.
You could still see reddish hues of the primer to give variety.
Then a thinner wash of dark grey especially where moisture would collect nearer the bottom.
A patchy wash of Tamiya Deck linoleum brown as a lighter rust colour especially below joints in the frame.
Finally it was dry brushed with a sandy brown and dabbed with orange on an inch brush, the orange was then flicked down with another 1 inch brush to blend the edges in and stream it down.
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Then I added some piers made from blue craft foam. The stones are drawn into it with a hard pencil and then it’s sealed in a stippled plaster coat followed by staining with thin washes for variation and rust stains. Final touch is a little dry brushing with cream on the stones.
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Paul M

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It looked fine, but practice is the art of perfection.
 

dunnyrail

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Yes for a running railway it is the dogs you know what. Some sorting out of the metalwork and some light dry brush perhaps lighter grey or white but very subtle should do the job. Perhaps a little more white at the bottom to reflect where lime wash has been used to clean out the van after carrying cattle as well.
 

Paul M

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Don't forget that real weathering takes time, even on steam railways. So it's not always necessary to go to extremes
 

PaulRhB

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True and Henri’s was more typical of good general use light weathering from the picture.
Wooden vehicles do weather to that state within a few weeks though as they don’t get cleaned so they reach a fairly standard dull finish with a light layer of dirt. Extreme weathering for a wooden van would be paint peeling leaving exposed wood, evidence of cleaner replaced timbers and and streaks of rust down from metal fittings. If they are fitted vehicles then you tend to get the brown layer of brake dust building over time.
These are fitted vans in the heritage train last summer and as they are stored outside weather exactly the same as they did in regular service ;)
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