I know this has probably been dealt with before, but I'm almost at the point of no return with my intended layout. The thing that is keeping me awake at night is bending flexible track. I'm using Peco 45mm. Has anyone got any hints or tips, so I can go back to a full night's sleep?
Flexible Track
- Thread starter Paul M
- Start date
I managed to pick up a Massoth Rail Bender second hand which is the job. Lucked out as it had Rollers for Peco which is probably shy it was relatively cheep.
Other options are the Belly or Leg Bend but take it gently. Or you could cut out a template from Hardboard or ply that fits inside the track to the correct Radius. Cut some holes in it or pin the Track on the Outside of the curves, this should keep things in place if you have wooden boards. If not then you are into the belly or leg bend. Do not worry if you over bend, just go at it the other way to return to a lesser curve.
Some like to take the Rail out of the sleepers, bend each rail separately then return to the sleepers. Helps if you do a small chamfer at the ends of the rails to assist return to the sleepers.
In all cases a piece of wood with the curve drawn out to the selected radius using a piece of string with a pencil and a nail on something solid to give you the correct curve gives you a good reference to work to.
No more sleepless nights, starting is the hardest part!
If all fails I can do a trip over with my bender, not too far away in St.Neots.
I have not used any Peco track but I have used the LGB flexi track. Belly bend and a homemade bender. If you are going around a curved route, you will obviously find that the inside rail will protrude beyond the ouside one and you will have to trim to suit.
From bitter experience - get a proper rail bender. Thought I'd do the belly bend bit, my belly precludes anything below 4 ft 
, to save on costs. The resulting uneven curves and and excessive straight ends on each section of flexi' disappointed. It also affected the running characteristics on some stock.
I bit the bullet and went down to Garden Railway Specialists (GRS) and got one of theirs with rollers for my stock of LGB and Tenmille code 332 rail. Ended up redoing the whole lot. You can get much better progressive/transitional curves using a bender and nearly all of each section, bar the last inch at each end, will have your desired profile(s).
The GRS site shows one for Peco G 45. Not cheap but then think of how much you spent, or will spend, on the track. Other track benders, and possibly second hand, are available. A post here or on the Garden Railway Trading Facebook site may unearth one with the correct profile rollers at a better cost. Max
, to save on costs. The resulting uneven curves and and excessive straight ends on each section of flexi' disappointed. It also affected the running characteristics on some stock.I bit the bullet and went down to Garden Railway Specialists (GRS) and got one of theirs with rollers for my stock of LGB and Tenmille code 332 rail. Ended up redoing the whole lot. You can get much better progressive/transitional curves using a bender and nearly all of each section, bar the last inch at each end, will have your desired profile(s).
The GRS site shows one for Peco G 45. Not cheap but then think of how much you spent, or will spend, on the track. Other track benders, and possibly second hand, are available. A post here or on the Garden Railway Trading Facebook site may unearth one with the correct profile rollers at a better cost. Max
Last edited:
I've done both and would recommend the Massoth rail bender any time for even results, especially at the ends of a section
I made a 'Jim Crow' to do mine (Peco). It makes a difference whether you want to fix your track panels down or let them float in the ballast.
A J/C is normally only used on the inside rail, in case you get too exuberant and form a kink, though often the kink can be removed by just turning the J/C the other way.
A J/C is normally only used on the inside rail, in case you get too exuberant and form a kink, though often the kink can be removed by just turning the J/C the other way.
Beware the Jim Crow... I was using one once, and I ended up breaking the rail.
Steel rail, rolled to a 1905 British Standard, 70lb section.
Steel rail, rolled to a 1905 British Standard, 70lb section.
You don't know your own strength!
It is a gradual process as I found out. The hydraulic ones work a treat though!
You don't know your own strength!
Yeah, I also had to lug a load of sleepers from one end of the yard to t'other. Got a bit tired of all the traipsing about with one sleeper slung over my shoulder, so, I decided to speed the job up, and take two sleepers at a time, one over each shoulder..... ah, the delights of narrow gauge.
Looking at the listings the Massoth rail bender II is only suitable for Code 332 (thou ") height rail. Paul M is says he is using using Peco 45 mm gauge which is code 250 (if "G", code 200 if gauge 1)). I'm not sure it will be any use, unless there is another version for different rail types in circulation. Max
P,S, Paul you have not specified if your Peco 45 mm gauge track is "G" or Gauge 1, as mentioned above there is a big difference in the rail height between the two. I don't want to assume anything and possibly lead you into making a costly mistake.
Thanks for the advice, I'll have to look, it was second hand from a chap who was using Bachmann outline gear so I assume it would be "G". I really hope it is to be honest, I imagine that there will be a major amount of really bad language if it isn't! My Accucraft Dora seems to sit alright on it. Oh god I'm going to lose sleep over this as well now
. Also what does a Jim Crow look like?
It's a rail bender basically
But on a larger scale.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=jim+crow+rail+bender&qpvt=jim+crow+rail+bender&FORM=IGRE
I have one for Code 332 track which might work on your rail if you needed to borrow one....
Thanks for the info and offer. I won't be ready for track laying for sometime, a month or so depending on the weather, but I'm smoothing out any pitfalls now rather than later.
Update, just tried some of my rolling stock on my track, all seems alright, apart from my LGB bits, their flanges are a bit deep. Not too worried though, I haven't got much of it, most of my stuff is kit built and has smaller flanges
Fair point. I don't know if you can get different rollers. One specifically for the profile would be better
As I mentioned in post #2 the rollers on mine were for Peco G Scale, I did not say Peco Code 250 G but this is what I have and was meaning. My bender is the older style and Rollers were available for differing Track Profiles. Mine is like this:-
http://www.grsuk.com/Rail-Bender-G-Scale-M5188
The latest one (changed design from my older one) in the main blurb discusses the LGB sized profile Code 332 but further in does cover Peco 250 and even 200 Code.
http://www.massoth.com/index.en.html
You need to click Products, Track Bending and once more for the full details.
Both Massoth types will bend both rails at the same time.
The GRS ones appear to only bend one Rail at a time.
http://www.grsuk.com/Rail-Bender-Kit---Peco-G-M5200
But are a more manageable price.
Last edited:
The GRS's rail benders is supplied with alternate rollers that are made to fit specific rail profiles, not sure about other makes. I assume most rail types we use are flat bottom profile as something has got to fit into the "chairs" on the sleepers.
Now, if the rail head width and the bottom of the rail were the same, as in most bullhead, or the rollers only gripped the between the rail head and foot then you could have a "universal" rail bender that could be used irrespective of rail profile and code. Perhaps there are some out there that work that way. Max
Sorry. was composing my previous post as you were posting yours Jon.That looks like the "Massoth II" rail bender is the answer then. I originally did a Google search for "Massoth rail bender" and this was the top result -
http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/massoth-rail-bender-ii
Problem is it does not have the link to the bit you had that tells you about it being able to do code 250 & 200. Somebody should tell them that they need to put that versatile feature upfront on their main description. How many sales may be lost as potential buyers will bypass it without giving a second glance. Next time I'll go to the "horse's mouth". Mind you the GRS one is still less than 1/2 the price though less versatile. Max
Last edited: