Track for marklin

[Jaime]

Hi All

I have difficults in choose the track for my project. The design is a raised layout, powered track for marklin 1. Options:
1. Train li: brass nickeled, code 332. Beautiful track and switches, but oversized
I believe. No rust, and simple clean.

2. Peco code 200 flex track
3. Llagas creek, code 215 or 250

4. Another ??

Thank you

Jaime

 

[ntpntpntp]

Do you mean Marklin LGB or Marklin Gauge 1?

For LGB then Peco code 250 is another option (Peco code 200 may be too low profile for some LGB wheels)

 

[Jaime]

Hi, is for Marklin 1 ..

 

[stockers]

Have a look here for the difference -

http://guidetozscale.com/html/marklin_1_and_lgb.html

 

[Jaime]

Ok , thank you very much

 

[dunnyrail]

You also have other Gauge 1 Track. Look at 10mm.

http://www.tenmille.com/Gauge1-home.html

Other options may be present on the links from here.

http://www.g1mra.com/resources-links/trade-suppliers/

JonD

 

[KeithT]

Accucraft track is another option. Cheaper than LGB.

 

[Jaime]

Thanks, a lot of information!!

 

[ntpntpntp]

If you're looking for track to suit Gauge 1 standard gauge 1:32 scale then the code 332 track for G scale (LGB, Piko, Accucraft, Aristocraft etc.) is probably too large as you said in post #1 Jaime. I think you're better looking for track in code 180 - 215.

 

[Jaime]

Ok, and,.. what is your opinion in brass v/s nickel ?, for powered track of course.....

 

[dunnyrail]

I use both Brass LGB/Aristo/Train Line and Nickel Peco on my line. Have to say I have no preference for either type of Metal. Though the Brass except Aristo certainly Tarnishes up quicker outside for a more Natural Look. The Nickel takes a while longer. But for Track Cleaning little to choose in my view if you use the line often and clean it fairly regularly.
JonD

 

[Q80gartenbahn]

Hi All

I have difficults in choose the track for my project. The design is a raised layout, powered track for marklin 1. Options:
1. Train li: brass nickeled, code 332. Beautiful track and switches, but oversized
I believe. No rust, and simple clean.

2. Peco code 200 flex track
3. Llagas creek, code 215 or 250

4. Another ??

Thank you

Jaime

Hi,

The LGB track or the slightly cheaper Piko are both compatible with Märklin Scale 1 and they are built for use outdoors . At the moment I have LGB tracks with Piko wagons and locomotives but it is my dream to add a train from .Märklin one day .

Have fun

 

[Gizzy]

Hi,

The LGB track or the slightly cheaper Piko are both compatible with Märklin Scale 1 and they are built for use outdoors . At the moment I have LGB tracks with Piko wagons and locomotives but it is my dream to add a train from .Märklin one day .

Have fun

I beg to differ here?

LGB and Piko code 332 track cannot be easily connected to Marklin track without adaptor fish plates. However I believe you mean that Marklin G1 stock can run on LGB or Piko track, which should be fine.

If Jaime is looking for track that can be used outdoors, then my personal preference would be for brass. Code 332 is over scale as mentioned, but it is very robust and survives outdoor use if it is UVA/UVB stable, which Piko and LGB definitely is! I have some ART track and Trainline points, but most of my line is LGB. My original line was 12 years old and the track is soon to be relaid at my new home. Most of my track was second hand so it could easily be 20 years or more old!

I have no experience with Llagas or Peco Code 200/250 track. I see quite a lot of Tenmille used on club layouts, and it is actually made close to my place of work, but I don't know if it is easily available in Chile....

 

[tim stevens]

Hi.
Thought I might just add my 2 penneth to this discussion. I set up a gauge 1 railway in Sweden about 20 years ago using about 150ft Peco code 200 NS gauge 1 flexible track system and the track survived 13 Swedish winters (very cold) and summers (very hot) so I can highly recommend the Peco trackwork for durability. What I did find a bit difficult was actually bending the track and joining curved pieces of flexitrack. This typically entailed cutting nearly every sleeper join and using the big stronger Peco code 250 (G) fishplates.
As for running different locomotives I can verify that Marklin gauge 1 (I had a class Br55 (0-8-0) and 2x Br38 (4-6-0) and coaches) runs fine on the Peco code 200. I don't however have any experience of the Marklin Maxi system though (I believe its locos have slightly larger flanges than the gauge1 locos but I am not sure). My live steam Roundhouse locomotives Katy and Atlantic also ran fine on code 200 track as did my Bachmann 2-8-0 consolidation (you can see that I find it very hard to stick to one prototype!).
I am now back in the UK having dismantled my railway in Sweden and reassembled the railway in the back garden in my East Devon home and apart from having to resolder some of the pointwork the track still seems to be surviving well.
I did recently purchase an LGB locomotive (Spreewald) and this too will also run on code 200 but only just and I find as the dirt accumulates on the sleeper chairs it does contact the LGB wheel flanges. This isnt really a problem though as my current locomotives are all battery powered. My gut feeling though is if you are really an LGB collector I would go for the larger G gauge track system (code 250/332). And the comment made by the other contributor is right. Running any of these trains on code 200 track will show up any deficiencies in your track laying more that the G gauge (code 250/332) track . Hope this helps.

 

[Jaime]

Left to right: marklin , Sunset Valley code 250, trainli code 332
Hi Friends

Sending progress of my project, the time is near to install tracks, and I have not yet chosen them.
Based on their opinions and other forums, a lot of YouTube videos the candidates are as follows:

Peco code 200: The most experience with marklin 1 on its tracks, from what I've seen in videos, also very good comments, Tim stevens for example. But I still look for a rail bender for code 200.

Cliff Barker: He had code 180 in NS, SS and brass, very beautiful, but a Fer marklin compatibility information. The good thing is the stainless steel, of apparently zero cleaning.

Sunset Valley code 250: Stainless steel, good track, but zero information in the web for marklin users.

Thanks for your opinions

 

[ntpntpntp]

You will still need to clean dust, dirt, bird dropping etc. from stainless steel so it's not 100% "zero cleaning"! It won't tarnish like brass or rust like steel though.

Good progress in your garden!

 

[tim stevens]

Hi Jaime
Love the photographs. Looks like you really have a serious project on your hands. Cant wait to see it develop.
Just to update a little on Peco track for Marklin gauge 1. I have recently purchased a couple of Marklin Maxi locos which i am thrilled with and seem to run superbly. I intend to fit them with Uhlenbrock decoders and Dietz sound. These locos run fine on the Peco code 200 track, although I I haven't yet got as far as running them over points since these are all outside and are currently almost permanently covered with rain water (that's what living in Devon gives you!). I was wondering if there are any other maxi enthusiasts out there. I can see this becoming a bit of an infatuation!!!

 

[ntpntpntp]

I was wondering if there are any other maxi enthusiasts out there. ...

Whilst not a Maxi enthusiast as such, I do have a Maxi "Jenny" as it's SWMBO's name. It's fitted with basic Lenz 1024 decoder I had lying around, using a custom copper-clad stripboard adapter which fits the Delta socket perfectly. I find the smoke unit is particularly effective on DCC with plenty of billowing smoke!

http://www.falconer-family.org.uk/marklin_54505_dcc_fitting.html

 

[tim stevens]

Whilst not a Maxi enthusiast as such, I do have a Maxi "Jenny" as it's SWMBO's name. It's fitted with basic Lenz 1024 decoder I had lying around, using a custom copper-clad stripboard adapter which fits the Delta socket perfectly. I find the smoke unit is particularly effective on DCC with plenty of billowing smoke!

http://www.falconer-family.org.uk/marklin_54505_dcc_fitting.html

Hi. Lots of n,t and P's
Actually your article was what inspired me yo go down the maxi dcc path. I had spent the last few years converting to rc but got sick and tired of charging batteries and the last straw was when my g1 pannier went up in flames after a short across 10 ,AA batteries. Much easier to get down on your knees and clean the rails and run with dcc ! Actually I remember from the time in Sweden that it didn't take s lot of effort track cleaning (Peco code 200) to get reliable running through the Motorola decoders , with a bit of help from an lgd track cleaner and some elbow grease.. Don't know if marklin do anything in that line (track cleaning car). Anyway thanks for that article. When I get the uhlenbrock decoders installed I will post a video. Best wishes.

 

[ntpntpntp]

.. Don't know if marklin do anything in that line (track cleaning car)...

hmm... they used to produce this one:
https://www.maerklin.de/en/products/details/article/54841/