Hello,
Most of you already know how to chip a Stainz loco, thanks to lots of information available in this forum (and previous one, GSM) and links to other pages. Anyway I would like to thank all of the members that contribute with information and share experiences, problems and solutions. Relative to the Stainz loco, my special thanks to Paul Stainzmeister/RhB (Master of Stainz locos) and also special thanks to Muns, who have help me out with CV programming and has been very kind to provide valuable answers in this particular case.
So let me this time share with you my experience in chipping this Stainz with all these features.
What I used
- Stainz #3 from a starter set, it has no electronics inside, the motor block comes with 4 connections, 2 for the track and 2 for the motor and the three lights (front, cabin and rear) are directly connected to the track voltage.
- Massoth LS deco with Stainz sounds
- Loudspeaker: Massoth 8241010, 57mm diameter
- Power buffer: Massoth 8151001
- Smoke generator: Massoth 8310201 (18v)
- Fire Box light unit: Massoth 8242060
- Uncoupler: Krois LGB uncoupler GBK
LS deco programming (again, thanks Muns
)
The three lights are connected to the proper inputs as indicated in the instructions, CV50=26 (to dim a bit the voltage to the lamps); CV51=128 and CV52=64 (front and rear lights always ON in th edirection of travel)
I used three free outputs, in the instructions named as F1, F2 and F3, I will call them A1, A2 and A3 not to confuse with the F keys from the Navigator, assigned as follows:
A1: smoke generator, CV53=90 (dimming the A1 not A2); CV54=7 (F7 key); CV55=0 (steady on)
A2: Uncoupler, CV53=90; CV56=10 (F10 key); CV57=79 (3,75 seconds ON before going automatically OFF). Note that if the uncoupler is connected for more than 4 seconds the Coil bull burn.
A3: Firebox Light, CV112=32 (full track voltage), CV113=12 (F12 key); CV114=0 (steady ON)
Finally, there is a CV129=200 for the operating time of the power buffer in DCC (don't kno wthe units, range is 0-255)
Loudspeaker
I made a hole in the roof of the cabin and put the speaker in place, passing the cables, towards the deco space, through same place as the rear/cabin lights. The speaker is firmly secured with contact adhesive.
Power Buffer
I just cut the cables shorter than they were and weld them to the right deco pads. The only place to hide it (other than the cabin, where it would be visible) is behind the Cabin boiler, so I needed to cut out the plastic nerve inside that piece that acts as reinforcement. I also cut out two plastic corners of the main boiler, where it joins with the cabin part. One more thing, I stick aluminium foil to the top of the capacitor so to enhance the effect of the FireBox unit.
Smoke generator
nothing special, all you need is to fit it inside the chimney and pass the cables under the boiler towards under the cabin. I used a mini connector so that I can do the assembly of the bodywork and do the connection when adding on to the chassis.
Fire Box Unit
I used double side tape to secure it right behind the Cabin boiler switch openings (note that the loco has no switch), I also added aluminium foil to reflect the light, and a micro connector so that I can remove the chassis and the top part of the loco without cutting wires.
Uncoupler Krois
This element is easy to install, just replace the plastic hook by the Krois one. It comes with a coil that is activated through two wires connected to function A2. These cables have to be routed to the deco with very thin through holes made in the base of the chassis. Again, I used a micro connector to facilitate separation of chassis and the bodywork.
Let me say that I have no experience on how they perform in a layout (mine is under construction but I will show you soon how it is going) and your feedback will be appreciated.
Photos
1) Presentation of the body part with main elements, you can see the deco, power buffer and firebox lights (under the top of the buffer. The red/black wires are using one micro connector I mention several times.
2) This photo shows the bodywork assemblied all together, the white plastic piece on top of the buffer is only to separate from the cabin boiler switch holes and make room for the firebox lights unit to fit.
3) The loco assemblied all together, you can see the connector coming out of the central dome with wires coming from the deco and from the lights connected together.
4) Here you can see the firebox unit in action, there is too much light due to the flash but it is very visible and is associated to the shoveling sound.
5) These last three photos show you the Krois uncoupler, first how it is fitted into place, second is a side view of the uncoupler when is not activated, and third is the uncoupler when activated, the axis is released and the loco gets free from the wagon behind.
This is all, I hope you find this interesting and useful information, do not hesitate to ask questions.
Cheers, Jose
Most of you already know how to chip a Stainz loco, thanks to lots of information available in this forum (and previous one, GSM) and links to other pages. Anyway I would like to thank all of the members that contribute with information and share experiences, problems and solutions. Relative to the Stainz loco, my special thanks to Paul Stainzmeister/RhB (Master of Stainz locos) and also special thanks to Muns, who have help me out with CV programming and has been very kind to provide valuable answers in this particular case.
So let me this time share with you my experience in chipping this Stainz with all these features.
What I used
- Stainz #3 from a starter set, it has no electronics inside, the motor block comes with 4 connections, 2 for the track and 2 for the motor and the three lights (front, cabin and rear) are directly connected to the track voltage.
- Massoth LS deco with Stainz sounds
- Loudspeaker: Massoth 8241010, 57mm diameter
- Power buffer: Massoth 8151001
- Smoke generator: Massoth 8310201 (18v)
- Fire Box light unit: Massoth 8242060
- Uncoupler: Krois LGB uncoupler GBK
LS deco programming (again, thanks Muns
)The three lights are connected to the proper inputs as indicated in the instructions, CV50=26 (to dim a bit the voltage to the lamps); CV51=128 and CV52=64 (front and rear lights always ON in th edirection of travel)
I used three free outputs, in the instructions named as F1, F2 and F3, I will call them A1, A2 and A3 not to confuse with the F keys from the Navigator, assigned as follows:
A1: smoke generator, CV53=90 (dimming the A1 not A2); CV54=7 (F7 key); CV55=0 (steady on)
A2: Uncoupler, CV53=90; CV56=10 (F10 key); CV57=79 (3,75 seconds ON before going automatically OFF). Note that if the uncoupler is connected for more than 4 seconds the Coil bull burn.
A3: Firebox Light, CV112=32 (full track voltage), CV113=12 (F12 key); CV114=0 (steady ON)
Finally, there is a CV129=200 for the operating time of the power buffer in DCC (don't kno wthe units, range is 0-255)
Loudspeaker
I made a hole in the roof of the cabin and put the speaker in place, passing the cables, towards the deco space, through same place as the rear/cabin lights. The speaker is firmly secured with contact adhesive.
Power Buffer
I just cut the cables shorter than they were and weld them to the right deco pads. The only place to hide it (other than the cabin, where it would be visible) is behind the Cabin boiler, so I needed to cut out the plastic nerve inside that piece that acts as reinforcement. I also cut out two plastic corners of the main boiler, where it joins with the cabin part. One more thing, I stick aluminium foil to the top of the capacitor so to enhance the effect of the FireBox unit.
Smoke generator
nothing special, all you need is to fit it inside the chimney and pass the cables under the boiler towards under the cabin. I used a mini connector so that I can do the assembly of the bodywork and do the connection when adding on to the chassis.
Fire Box Unit
I used double side tape to secure it right behind the Cabin boiler switch openings (note that the loco has no switch), I also added aluminium foil to reflect the light, and a micro connector so that I can remove the chassis and the top part of the loco without cutting wires.
Uncoupler Krois
This element is easy to install, just replace the plastic hook by the Krois one. It comes with a coil that is activated through two wires connected to function A2. These cables have to be routed to the deco with very thin through holes made in the base of the chassis. Again, I used a micro connector to facilitate separation of chassis and the bodywork.
Let me say that I have no experience on how they perform in a layout (mine is under construction but I will show you soon how it is going) and your feedback will be appreciated.
Photos
1) Presentation of the body part with main elements, you can see the deco, power buffer and firebox lights (under the top of the buffer. The red/black wires are using one micro connector I mention several times.
2) This photo shows the bodywork assemblied all together, the white plastic piece on top of the buffer is only to separate from the cabin boiler switch holes and make room for the firebox lights unit to fit.
3) The loco assemblied all together, you can see the connector coming out of the central dome with wires coming from the deco and from the lights connected together.
4) Here you can see the firebox unit in action, there is too much light due to the flash but it is very visible and is associated to the shoveling sound.
5) These last three photos show you the Krois uncoupler, first how it is fitted into place, second is a side view of the uncoupler when is not activated, and third is the uncoupler when activated, the axis is released and the loco gets free from the wagon behind.
This is all, I hope you find this interesting and useful information, do not hesitate to ask questions.
Cheers, Jose
