Connecting an R1 and R2 loop

Bryan Thatcher

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I have an R1 and an R2 loop, oval actually with straight sections between. I would like to connect them along the straight section. Looks like I am going to need either 2 left hand switches, or 2 right hand switches. My question is what radius switches to use to keep the inside loop centered? I'm using 300mm straight track. How long is the straight portion of the switch? How will the two switches line up along the length? Thanks.
 

Madman

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Depending on the length of the straight sections you can either use R1 or R3 switch tracks. With the R3 switches you'll need a longer straight section on each of the two loops. That's if the loops are centered on one another.

If you want to use the switch tracks back to back, whether R1 or R3, you can make the loops off center. This can be beneficial. For instance, the distance between the straight sections will be closer on one side of the layout than on the other. So in the larger area you can have a station complex.

I hope this helps. Without pictures or diagrams it can be difficult to understand. So I drew this half baked down and dirty quicky. The upper sketch shows the off center loops, while the lower is the centered loops. The centered loops will required a couple of straight sections between the switch tracks.

IMG_4711.jpg
 

SevenOfDiamonds

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I would recommend the use of AnyRail (the trial version is free of charge) to work through your options (and hope the attached pictures are visible).

If you use R1 turnouts, the straight track is 300mm so this matches your existing straight tracks and the two loops are are "centred" left-to-right. They are not quite "centred" top-to-bottom as you can see by the second crossover that I've shown at the bottom of the loop (just to show the difference) . . .

upload_2017-1-2_18-3-51.png

If you use R3 turnouts, the straight track is 440mm so very slightly different from (say) a 10000 (300mm) straight and a 10150 (150mm) straight (though LGB track is tolerant enough to join up despite the 10mm "gaps"). The loops are centred top-to-bottom, but not quite left-to-right . . .

upload_2017-1-2_18-8-53.png

I hope this helps.

David
 
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Bryan Thatcher

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I hope this helps.

Absolutely it does, exactly what I was looking for. I'll look at AnyRail. I tried TRAX and quickly abandoned it, from what I remember I needed to enter the rotation of each piece. Very likely missed something, but ran out of time to mess with it. I am good at CAD and created a drawing of straight and curved sections. But didn't have the dimensions for the points, as I understand they are called.
Regarding my layout, I'm working on some modular tables and need to see where my wife will let me put them, that will dictate the shape of my layout. So I'm trying to make decisions that wont limit me down the road. One option is a 3658mm x 1829mm table. I have track for the loops I described. If I go with the R3 and put one on each side it'll take care of the gap. Thanks.
 

playmofire

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With the free version of AnyRail, you are limited to the number of pieces of track you can use in a plan, but the limit is fairly generous if you think ahead. For example,90cm of track could be three 30cm lengths or one 90cm length.
 

SevenOfDiamonds

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Absolutely it does, exactly what I was looking for. I'll look at AnyRail. I tried TRAX and quickly abandoned it, from what I remember I needed to enter the rotation of each piece.

Just to save you feeling the same way about AnyRail, I was initially frustrated by it - right-clicking to choose "Rotate" then working out which buttons to click to determine the number of degrees to rotate it (and especially in which direction) and then having to "OK" it. I subsequently learned that as long as the two track elements are within (maybe as much as) 30 degrees, just putting the two track ends next to each other is enough to make the 'active' piece twist round allowing the two pieces to "snap" together.

The G-Scale section includes Track Libraries for NINE different suppliers, including Playmobil! The free version allows you 50 pieces of track (but you can save that in a file, and start again with another 50 pieces).

All the best

David
 

chadwick

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I recognize that I am wee bit late to this conversation, nonetheless here is my Christmas tree R1/R2 loops using R1 points:

-Keith.
 

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Gavin Sowry

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I don't have any problems with those programmes...... because I simply don't need, or use, them.
 
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stockers

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They can be fun Gavin, but I tend to agree - my track goes (and ends up) where i put it.
 

korm kormsen

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for an easy connection of the two loops use R1 curves. they fit the 30cm roster of the straights.
for better driving, the R3s are nicer. - but you will need more pieces of shorter track, to make everything fit.

if you use R1s, (if my memory still works) you should be able to make simple crossovers on both straights, without additional short track and leaving the two loops well centered in relation to each other.

edit: UUUUPS..... a wee bit late. thats the understatement of the week.
 

idlemarvel

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I recognize that I am wee bit late to this conversation, nonetheless here is my Christmas tree R1/R2 loops using R1 points:

-Keith.
Indeed all these comments are a bit late for the OP but may help others.
I like your layout Keith but in general I find that having a right hand R1 curve leading directly into the toe end of a right hand R1 point/switch causes derailments if the point is thrown, likewise LH R1 curve and LH R1 point. Better to have a short straight section before the toe end of the point. So in your example the outer loop would be okay but the inner loop not. You'll probably say it worked for you, and it may depend on the size and speed of locos you use, I'm just passing on my experience of using R1 in limited space layouts.
 

Gizzy

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I had an R1/R2 loop on my old layout and I used LGB points for the crossovers.

I used a short length of LGB 10040 track in the inner R1 loop to equalise the track spacing, which should be 165 mm or around 6 and 3/4 inches in old money.

You can read about it here;

https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/the-logging-gravel-brickworks-railway.3792/

I am building a new railway at my new home, and it too will have a similar R1/R2 loop with R1 points for the crossovers....
 

Gavin Sowry

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With the free version of AnyRail, you are limited to the number of pieces of track you can use in a plan, but the limit is fairly generous if you think ahead. For example,90cm of track could be three 30cm lengths or one 90cm length.

With a piece of paper, a pencil, compass, protractor, ruler, and an eraser*...... you are totally unlimited! :lipssealed:

*if perchance, the eraser wears out, and you need another..... perhaps stamp collecting may be a better hobby. :devil: :think: Ward Kimball (of Grizzly Flats fame), in his spoof video extolling the virtues of our hobby, twice mentions stamp collecting, in a rather condescending way. You-tube it, good watch. :angel:
 
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